The glass doors components include two glass panes sandwiched between a metal or plastic frame. The other panel has rollers and a locking handle, whereas the first is meant to remain in place. To install a glass door unit, first, the frame must be assembled and then installed in the door opening, followed by the placement of the glass panels in the tracks. The assistance makes the process much simpler for the typical do-it-yourself homeowner.
- Place the frame on a level area and arrange the top, sides, and bottom. There is a deep channel in the top for the sliding door, a raised bead in the base for the rollers, and machined holes at both ends of the sides for securing the top and bottom.
- Assemble the frame’s rectangular sides by fitting their ends into the slots on the top and bottom of the structure. Both the top and bottom have machined ports to line up with the corresponding holes in the side pieces. Drive the screws provided into the holes and secure the frame pieces at the corners.
- Prepare an all-weather sealant and load it into a calking gun. When installing the doors, make sure you run a consistent bead of adhesive down the floor of the aperture. To install, position the frame over the sealant and drop it into the recess. Put pressure on the frame’s sides to make the fins on the outside edges touch the face of the framing on the wall on all four sides and across the top of the aperture.
- With a 4-foot level, make sure the frame is vertical on all sides. The frame is affixed to the wall with 1 1/4-inch deck screws at 12-inch intervals.
- Moisture flashing paper has to be cut to size and installed along the top and sides of the frame. The structure’s height may be calculated by adding six inches to the side measurements. Using a utility knife, cut two identical pieces of flashing.
- Put together a staple gun using 1/2-inch staples. Each piece of flashing should be applied flat on the wall face on each side of the frame, with the inner edge of the flashing flush against the edge of the frame. Pairs of staples spaced every 12 inches should be used to secure the flashing to the walls.
- Find the span of the frame’s top and add 12 inches to that number. Make a straight cut along this measurement and lay the flashing over the top of the frame, flush with the wall. Align the panel horizontally and vertically, then secure it with pairs of staples every 12 inches.
Hardware and Installation
The door’s swinging panel will be on one side of the entrance, while the fixed panel will be on the other. Put the stationary panel into the opening in the frame. The board is installed by having someone hold one edge while you slide the top into the exterior channel at the top of the structure and the bottom into the outer channel at the frame’s bottom.
With your hand, push the panel’s outside edge against the opening’s frame, and then snug the panel’s inner edge to the frame’s side. Attach the bottom and top stationary clips to the panel’s structure using the screws provided. The machined holes in the door’s edge and the included handle assembly should be checked for quality. Handles often have stems that fit in the holes on the outside half and machine screw holes on the interior half.
Attach the handle’s two halves using the machine screws, positioning them on the frame’s edge where the door slides. Then, place the swinging door vertically along one side. Put a roller mechanism from the kit into either end of the door’s grooved bottom. The roller mechanisms often have a pegged lot that fits into a notch on the channel’s inner face. A firm push on each roller will fully seat the tools into the door’s bottom.
The panel’s handle should be oriented toward the opening as it is positioned at the frame. Pull up the panel’s edges and drop the top into the slot on the top rail. Drop the board until its rollers rest on the raised bead at the frame’s base. Slide open the door, then look at the other side of the frame to find the given rubber bumper. Finally, use the machine screw to attach the rubber bumper to the frame’s face.